The last leg of fashion month has arrived, kicking off with Saint Laurent in the rain, and a sporty pret-a-porter Dior show.
Paris Fashion Week has always been synonymous with glamour, creativity, and the highest form of artistic expression in fashion. Yet, this season feels different, not just because of the spectacular collections, but due to a palpable shift in the fashion landscape. Behind the glitz of runway shows and high-profile events, there’s a sense that the industry is undergoing a major reconfiguration. Big names like Sean McGirr, preparing for his second collection at Alexander McQueen, and Alessandro Michele, set to make his highly anticipated debut for Valentino, are at the centre of fashion’s rumour mill. With so much speculation about these designers’ moves, fashion insiders wonder how their creative directions will shape the future of luxury fashion.
What’s apparent is that fashion in Paris is at a crossroads. The last few years have seen a resurgence of theatrical, over-the-top shows that push the boundaries of traditional runway presentations. Designers increasingly rely on entertainment crossovers, collaborations, and even gimmicks to capture attention in an ever-more crowded industry. Collections today seem more frenetic and fragmented, often filled with a mix of ideas rather than a cohesive vision. This reflects the commercial pressures designers face, as the market for luxury goods softens, forcing many to find new ways to stand out.
Amid this period of transformation, there have been glimmers of hope for the purists who long for the days when fashion was more about art than spectacle.
Paris Fashion Week reflects the industry itself—a balancing act between tradition and innovation, commerce and creativity. As we look ahead to the future of fashion, one thing is certain: Paris will continue to be the place where bold ideas are born, nurtured, and celebrated. Keep reading this article to discover the boldest collection spotted during Paris Fashion Week.
HERMÈS
Hermès’ latest womenswear collection by Nadège Vanhée explored the artistry behind the atelier, where creativity meets craftsmanship. The runway, framed by panelled walls resembling blank canvases, embodied this theme. The collection featured semi-sheer knits layered over sporty underwear, lightweight leather jackets, and pleated trousers, showcasing Hermès’ refined techniques. Zippers along seams added modernity, while vibrant pinks and graphic prints on silk shirts mirrored an artist’s brushstrokes. Intricate dresses, combining knitwear, leather, and beads, captured the paradox of lightness through craftsmanship, with each piece reflecting effortless beauty despite the meticulous work involved.
SAINT LAURENT
Anthony Vaccarello’s latest Saint Laurent collection was staged at the brand’s Rue de Bellechasse headquarters, where he first presented eight years ago, symbolizing a full-circle moment. The runway, a monumental golden circle over a vivid blue floor, evoked the iconic Yves Saint Laurent gardens in Marrakech. The collection paid direct homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s signature style, featuring fluid, tailored suits and opulent, boho-inspired designs. Bella Hadid’s runway return, donning Saint Laurent’s iconic glasses, highlighted the show. Vaccarello’s sensual interpretation of the house’s history resulted in one of his most desirable collections to date.
DIOR
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest ready-to-wear collection for Dior revisited themes from her A/W 2024 couture show, drawing inspiration from Ancient Greece and mythology. For S/S 2025, Chiuri focused on the mythological Amazons, fierce female warriors, connecting them to Christian Dior’s iconic Amazone dress, which symbolizes feminine strength and autonomy. The collection, presented at Paris’ Musée Rodin, blended sleek, sporty elements with romantic touches. Asymmetric bodysuits, mesh dresses, and utility shirts evoked empowerment, while sheer fabrics, plissé dresses, and glimmering tassels added Dior’s signature elegance. Chiuri’s exploration of movement and dress honoured the house’s rich heritage while pushing boundaries.
SCHIAPARELLI
Schiaparelli’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, presented in September 2025, continued its tradition of blending art and fashion with bold, avant-garde designs. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry drew inspiration from surrealism, offering a lineup that featured exaggerated silhouettes, intricate embroidery, and sculptural embellishments. The collection showcased striking contrasts of gold, black, and vibrant jewel tones, with couture-like tailoring and dramatic accessories, including oversized hats and surrealist-inspired jewellery. Roseberry played with themes of fantasy and reality, evoking the house’s historical ties to surrealist artists while pushing the boundaries of modern couture with a fresh, innovative vision.
VETEMENTS
Vetements, the rebellious fashion collective founded by Demna and Guram Gvasalia, continues to challenge the conventions of the fashion industry with its subversive designs and anti-establishment ethos. Known for its oversized silhouettes, ironic slogans, and deconstructed aesthetics, Vetements critiques consumer culture and luxury fashion through bold, often satirical collections. The brand has become synonymous with streetwear-inspired pieces, blending high-fashion craftsmanship with everyday, utilitarian elements like hoodies, trench coats, and jeans. By collaborating with unexpected brands and incorporating unconventional materials, Vetements has built a cult following, consistently pushing boundaries and questioning the very nature of fashion itself.
