Demna’s Spring 2025 collection showcased in Shanghai brilliantly merged avant-garde aesthetics with commercial savvy, proving that creativity is the ultimate luxury. The show highlighted his distinctive design vision, reaffirming Balenciaga’s relevance in the modern fashion landscape.
Just before his Fall 2024 Balenciaga runway show in Paris last March, Demna delivered a message that encapsulated his design philosophy. Accessible through a QR code in his collection notes, he declared, “What seems truly rare and infinite right now is creativity itself. I believe that creativity has secretly become a new form of luxury.” This statement is the essence of Demna’s approach to luxury, viewing it as a self-expressive playground rather than a rule-bound gilded hall. This perspective has driven his success at Balenciaga over the past nine years.
Recently, Demna has been reiterating his core values through his collections. Starting in October 2023, he has presented a series of shows that embody his signature codes, marked by a punkish, provocative attitude and distinctive padded shoulders. Despite his consistent vision, Demna is not one to remain static. His latest Spring 2025 runway show (technically Resort 2025), held last night in Shanghai, is a testament to this dynamism. Despite having more store locations in China than anywhere else, this was Balenciaga’s first show in the country, a project years in the making.
The Shanghai collection unveiled on a rainy night at the imposing Museum of Art Pudong, showcased Demna’s intellectually curious exploration of Balenciaga’s house codes and his twisted take on classic glamour. Demna’s affinity for reality shows was evident, as one could easily imagine the cast of Netflix’s *Bling Empire* donning the quirky rich-lady outfits on the runway, whether in L.A. or on the streets of Shanghai. The collection featured hourglass skirts, billowy pussy-bow blouses paired with slinky open-toe heels white tube socks, and ripped-fabric pantaboots. Cropped and bulky trenches, along with cocooning faux-fur coats, exuded an “I’m expensive” vibe, paired with an aura of nonchalance. True to Demna’s style, elements of tackiness were rendered sharp through perfect tailoring and distinct lines.
Men’s fashion was prominently featured, alongside the reveal of a new collaboration between Balenciaga and Under Armour. The viral pièce de résistance was the triple-layer brick-size flatform boot, inspired by Shanghai’s towering skyscrapers, set to become a must-have for Demna’s most dedicated followers.
The couture looks that closed the show were particularly magical, especially those crafted from upcycled materials. The pink gown that concluded the event was made from decade-old plastic bags, hand-cut into strips and fastened with wire to mimic feathers. A sleeveless draped dress was fashioned from gold-foil gift packaging, while two other pieces utilized Tyvek paper and collected travel bags. Another standout was the “black velvet jewellery display dress,” exactly as described, catering to those who appreciate luxury with a side of eccentricity.
Demna’s affection for Shanghai and his customer base there was palpable, and this show was the result of years of meticulous planning. However, despite his elevated creative vision, Demna remains a pragmatist. The luxury market in Asia continues to expand, and staging a high-profile show in China is a savvy business move. Demna excels at balancing creative integrity with commercial viability, a quality that makes him an exceptional artistic director and visionary. Whether in Shanghai or elsewhere, he designs clothes that provoke thought and evoke emotion—qualities that transcend monetary value.
Balenciaga’s Spring 2025 collection in Shanghai was more than a fashion show; it was a narrative woven with threads of creativity, luxury, and cultural dialogue. Demna’s ability to blend avant-garde aesthetics with a deep understanding of market dynamics ensures that Balenciaga remains at the forefront of fashion innovation. This show not only celebrated the brand’s heritage but also underscored its relevance in today’s fast-paced, ever-evolving fashion landscape.
Demna’s latest collection for Balenciaga was a brilliant showcase of his philosophy that creativity is the ultimate luxury. By combining bold, thought-provoking designs with a keen sense of market strategy, he continues to push the boundaries of fashion. The Shanghai show was a testament to his visionary approach, highlighting that true luxury lies in the ability to innovate and inspire, making us think and feel in ways that transcend the material.
