Simon Porte Jacquemus’ SS23 RTW Collection

For this Spring 2023 RTW collection, Jacquemus paid tribute to the past and present by taking the brand’s background history into account.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

Fashion brand Jacquemus presented its Spring/Summer 2023 collection at Bourget, Paris, France. The French creative designer, Simon Porte Jacquemus, amazed everyone with his latest runway show titled “Le Raphia”, which referenced a raffia palm from Africa. He used this element in oversized garments, bags and hats. “This is my last show,” Simon Porte Jacquemus commented on his Instagram stories, later clarifying, “of the year.”

This new collection aimed to return to its Mediterranean origins. Simon Porte said he got inspired by other concepts of the brand. Therefore, he wanted to be faithful to its emblematic codes. The creative director also said he was inspired by “girls you imagine in Portofino and Capri, going around with their hats and earrings and polka-dot pants.” 

For this Spring 2023 RTW collection, the brand paid tribute to the past and present by taking the brand’s background history into account, “I didn’t want to tell another story about myself. We wanted to reference our own history; the way the Maison would,” Simon Porte said. “The idea of something so summery, and almost making fun of ourselves with the hats too big, we wanted something super elegant.” He added. 

Courtesy of Jacquemus
Courtesy of Jacquemus

The collection featured 54 pieces. Pieces moved from blues and colour pastels to a cheerier beige, yellows and red. On the runway, we could see earthy tones and accessories, such as giant knit-style hats, including fringes and other elements that transported us to a very hot summer on the beach.

“It’s the end of the summer. All these colours, all the dreams that I saw, that I had, go away. The smell, the beauty, The Raphia rain sweeps everything away as in a dream… Will I see again those big hats, those flower buckets, those prints? I think so.”. Menswear maintained the playful drama as womenswear but remained more gender fluid.

Courtesy of Jacquemus
Courtesy of Jacquemus

Model Vittoria Ceretti wore the iconic twisted jersey micro dress. On the runway show, there were also baggy jeans washed with metallic silver paint, mini shorts, bathing suits, sheer ensembles with flower appliqués, knitwear, casual T-shirts, shaggy coats, and more.

In accessories, we could see the micro Chiquito bag, oversized raffia sunflower and giant daisy earrings, hay-like hats, and raffia hats. Bird-Esque coats and crop tops that shimmed also took centre stage as models walked. There were also polka dot pedal pushers paired with colossal white collars that felt reminiscent of his early days and an emphasis on denim to bring things back to earth.

Amongst the shoes, the line included clogs and strappy stilettos, while the pointy toes implanted with a circle and a square on each toe, the brand’s own signature invention.

Pamela Anderson

The likes of Blackpink singer Jennie, actors Pamela Anderson, Vincent Cassel, Sophie Marceau and reality-TV personality Christine Quinn were in attendance to witness the collection. Some of them wore incredible designs from the current collection, while others from the one Simon Porte showed in June. “You know, often they go more viral than the show,” he said. “It’s different, dressing real people who are not models. I love it. People find them relatable.”

A few other buzzy stars jetted across the pond for the off-calendar show, including Drag Race winner Symone, Richie Shazam and Emma Chamberlain. Throw in two Elite actors (Manu Rios, Arón Piper), and designers (Amina Muaddi, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Daniel Roseberry).