Everything You Need to Know About Schiaparelli FW22-23’ Haute Couture Collection

The Maison teaches us that extravaganza, glamour and Art are key on this season.

Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Although Elsa Schiaparelli passed away in 1973 at the age of 83, her legacy in the fashion world is far from gone. This Italian, who dared to dress in black for her wedding, unknowingly created a design empire that moves between the futuristic, the traditional and the eccentricity of cubism.

After his death, the brand closed. But in the 21st century, the CEO of the Italian brand Tod’s wanted to give life and a new look to Elsa’s designs by buying their rights and files. Since 2019, the fashion house has been headed by Daniel Roseberry, its Creative Director, an American designer who has brought the brand back to life.

Elsa Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli went back to where it belongs and reopened the doors of new trends in Haute Couture from the Hotel de Fontpertuis, its original location.

Unveiled at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Creative Director Daniel Roseberry unveiled his SCHIAPARELLI Fall-Winter 2022-2023 Haute Couture collection during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. The collection combined glamour, softness, creativity, art, and of course, fashion. On same day, its Creative Director Daniel Roseberry presented a retrospective exhibition dedicated to Elsa Shiaparelli, titled “Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Shiaparelli.”

A model walks the runway during Schiaparelli FW Couture Collection.

For this Haute Couture collection, Roseberry recreated the luxury of Christian Lacroix‘s 1987 debut. Some of the mature floral arrangements were inspired by designer and social icon Carolyne Roehm‘s book A Passion for Flowers. Besides, the collection itself was influenced by “the way Elsa dressed,” which entailed meticulous tailoring.

Roseberry once again proves that fashion is important part of life and making truly beautiful things isn’t easy. He admits fashion is silly at times, but he also states it’s provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful, as well as breathtaking and beautiful.

I think we sometimes get offensive when our critics accuse us of just wanting to make beautiful things. But what’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? It’s not the only important part of life, of course, but it is a part of life. And to make truly beautiful things isn’t actually that easy. But it is a privilege.” Daniel Roseberry, Creative Director at Schiaparelli.

A model walks the runway during Schiaparelli FW Couture Collection.

In recent years, though, it’s felt like fashion has tried its hardest to prove it actually isn’t silly. The pressure designers feel to make a statement about the current political situation, our ongoing climatic disaster, the inequalities among people of different races and genders, and an age of war has in fact led to some extraordinary work, not to mention a reengagement of our industry with the broader culture.” – Daniel Roseberry.

The collection featured corseted velvet corsets, bias-cut dresses supported by threads, asymmetrical silk pajamas revealing breasts, flowing flowers emerging from the neckline or shoulders, exaggerated canopies, paintings Hat and hay shawl.

Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

The neckline of a black velvet jacket cut into a face’s profile and the encrusted Lesage embroidery that she relished in were modest tributes to Elsa Schiaparelli’s own Magical realist inspirations. A pair of earrings dripping bunches of golden grapes and so heavy that they had to be tied with a delicate tiara hair band brought a simple black velvet evening dress that appeared like one of Roseberry’s dramatic design sketches to life into Schiap’s zany universe. Peace doves are being delivered to the collection in 2022.

“I hope that spirit comes through in this collection: I hope people who see it can tell what fun the team and I had making it. I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory.” Daniel Roseberry.

Courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Courtesy of Schiaparelli.