This season’s couture shows in Paris were a celebration of fashion’s rich heritage and its innovative future.
The Paris couture shows have long been the pinnacle of high fashion, a place where creativity knows no bounds and artistry is at its finest. This season, the shows brought a renewed energy to fashion’s oldest artistic showcase. Designers embraced both tradition and innovation, offering fresh takes on classic couture elements such as embroidery and sculptural draping. Additionally, many collections reflected the influence of sportswear and streetwear, nodding to the upcoming Olympic Games set to begin in Paris on July 26th. Each collection brought something unique to the table, from the athletic inspirations at Dior to the subcultural references at Balenciaga. The blend of tradition and innovation created a dynamic and exciting showcase, proving once again that couture is the ultimate expression of fashion artistry.
Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior expertly combined classic and contemporary with Grecian jersey dresses and embroidered bodysuits that celebrated the athletic form. Demna at Balenciaga reimagined streetwear staples like hoodies, t-shirts, tracksuits, and denim, infusing them with couture sensibility. Giorgio Armani, on the eve of his 90th birthday, showcased a pearl-themed collection that epitomized elegance with beautiful tailoring and velvet creations. Daniel Roseberry’s collection for Schiaparelli, titled “The Phoenix,” featured stunning wing-shaped shoulders adorned with 3-D chrome embroidery, exemplifying feats of construction with muslin draping and layering. Nicolas Di Felice, serving as the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, brought his vision to life with a sharp, minimalistic interpretation of Gaultier’s signature style. Meanwhile, Chanel’s interim in-house team, following the departure of Virginie Viard, presented dramatic taffeta capes and hair bows that captured the essence of classic Chanel.
Let’s dive deeper into the standout collections from the top seven shows of the week.
SCHIAPARELLI
Daniel Roseberry’s collection for Schiaparelli paid homage to the brand’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, with a series of pieces that were both dramatic and intricate. Velvet, feathers, and organza spikes were used to create body-hugging bustiers that were nothing short of breathtaking. The collection titled “The Phoenix” symbolized rebirth and transformation, themes that were masterfully translated into each garment. The opening look, with its wing-shaped shoulders and 3-D chrome embroidery, set the tone for a collection that was both innovative and true to the house’s storied heritage.
BALENCIAGA
Demna’s vision for Balenciaga’s 53rd couture collection was a tribute to both subcultural dress codes and the design legacy of Cristobal Balenciaga. The collection featured oversized hoodies, t-shirts, tracksuits, and denim, all reimagined with couture techniques. This juxtaposition of high and low fashion was a nod to contemporary streetwear while remaining rooted in the house’s elegant and architectural tradition. Each piece was meticulously crafted, showcasing Demna’s ability to merge the avant-garde with the classic.
CHANEL
Presented at the iconic Palais Garnier, Chanel’s Fall 2024 Couture collection was a testament to the brand’s enduring legacy. The interim in-house team presented a series of rich tweeds, beautiful embroideries, and dramatic taffeta capes. Each piece was a tribute to the timeless elegance of Chanel, with intricate details that highlighted the craftsmanship and attention to detail that the brand is known for. The collection seamlessly blended the classic with the contemporary, creating a series of looks that were both sophisticated and modern.
DIOR
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection for Dior was a celebration of the human form and athleticism. With the Olympic Games set to take place in Paris, Chiuri drew inspiration from athletes, creating silhouettes that highlighted the beauty and strength of the human body. Grecian jersey dresses and embroidered bodysuits were the highlights of the collection, each piece exuding grace and power. The collection was a perfect blend of classical references and modern aesthetics, showcasing Chiuri’s ability to create timeless yet contemporary pieces.
ARMANI PRIVÉ
Giorgio Armani’s pearl-themed collection was a celebration of elegance and sophistication. Featuring a beautiful lineup of evening suits and embroidered dresses, the collection was a masterclass in tailoring and craftsmanship. The use of pearls added a touch of opulence to each piece, creating a sense of timeless beauty. On the eve of his 90th birthday, Armani proved once again why he is considered one of the greatest designers of our time, with a collection that was both innovative and deeply rooted in tradition.
THOM BROWNE
Thom Browne’s collection was a study in construction and form. Using muslin fabric, typically reserved for the initial stages of garment creation, Browne crafted a series of pieces that were both architectural and fluid. The collection featured draped and layered looks that showcased Browne’s innovative approach to design. Each piece was meticulously constructed, highlighting the designer’s skill in creating garments that are both avant-garde and wearable.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Guest designer Nicolas Di Felice presented a sharp, minimalistic interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s signature style. The collection featured sexy, body-conscious dresses, coats, and long skirts that were both bold and elegant. Di Felice’s vision brought a fresh perspective to the iconic brand, creating a series of looks that were modern yet true to Gaultier’s legacy. The collection was a perfect blend of innovation and tradition, showcasing the timeless appeal of Gaultier’s designs.
